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If not specified, cut a rectangle of interfacing 1/2˝ wider than the zipper and 3˝ long. Cut the interfacing and fuse it to the wrong side of a scrap of fabric. 2. Trim the seam allowances back to 3/8˝ on the long edges and 1/2˝ on the short ends. ½˝ 3⁄8˝ Basic Bag-Making Techniques 63 3. Fuse a line of fusible tape along each of the 7. While the webbing is still warm, turn in the long edges of the interfacing, extending it onto the seam allowances at each of the short ends. raw edge corners at each end of the tab, leaving a 1/8˝ gap between the folded ends and the edge of the interfacing.

Topstitch 1/16˝ from the edge of the seam to hold the outer and lining fabrics together. Then stitch another row of top stitching 1/4˝ from the first. Bottom 3 layers 7. Trim off the excess binding from between the outer and lining layers of the pocket. 8. Repeat Steps 1–6 to attach the other side of the divider pocket to the other side of the zipper. 3. Working on the ironing board, place the untrimmed pocket layer under the 3 (stitched together) pocket layers, aligning the side edges. Fold a turning over the untrimmed pocket edge, to encase the other 3 layers, and press it flat.

Use enough interfacing to ensure that the loop will remain flat (not bunch up), and topstitch the ring into the fold of the loop, using a zipper foot if necessary. 5. Turn the strap through to the right side, move the seam to the center, and press the strap flat from both sides. 8. Place the loops right (the prettiest) side down on the right side of the bag, aligning the raw edges with the top edges of the bag. Stitch the loops into place, 1/4˝ from the edge. When you attach the facing to the top edge of the bag, the raw edges will be caught and hidden by the seam.

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Advance writing with English in use CAE


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